J J Valaya channels Russian chic at Amazon India Fashion Week

In Pragati Maidan’s cavernous halls, on the first day of the newly rechristened Amazon India Fashion Week, a scene was building. J J Valaya – India’s proud tsar of bridal wear – was about to unveil a mint new A/W 2015 poet collection steeped in Russian leitmotifs, from the collection’s name, Bolshoi Bazaar (an allusion to Moscow’s famed ballet and opera theatre) to the gigantic matryoshka doll and illuminated red onion domes adorning the top of the catwalk.

Bolshoi, also meaning “large” or “great”, is an adjective commonly attributed to Valaya’s ouevre, and it is one he embraces well.

With a proclivity for opulent theatrics and throwbacks to royal customs from across eras, Vallaya’s explorations have taken him to Turkey, India, Arabia, Morocco and Spain.

This year, the crowd’s spirits weren’t dampened by the hour’s delay. It was a motley crew of New Delhi’s arrivistes discussing homely affairs and fashion bloggers talking shop, all clad in everything from bandage dresses and stilettos heels to trainers and oversized dresses.

Then the show began, and Valaya turned heads with a surprising return to basics. In a twist no one was expecting, the designer gave his audience genuine ready-to-wear.

Varun Rana, fashion features editor of Harpers Bazaar India, was pleasantly surprised from his perch in the front row.

“I can mentally take the clothes hang them on a hanger in harsh lighting in a store,” said Rana. “Minus the opulent set and dramatic music, I see lots of separates and wearable stuff.”

On the catwalk were gorgeous skirts with block prints and Georgette saris in charcoal grey with vintage zari, straight out of grandmothers’ wardrobes.

For those who found this to be a contrived tangent, Rana, whose first job more than a decade ago was as Valaya’s assistant, begged to differ.

“This wasn’t a conscious departure for Valaya,” said Rana. “He’s been trying to do this for a while. And I can see so many women I know wanting to wear his stuff. He wasn’t repetitive and still kept his signature. This is a new, wearable Valaya.”

Bold ikats from nomadic Russia found their way onto skirts angrakhas and anarkalis. Onion domes appeared as headgear by Nitya Bajaj Arora’s Valliyan. Taffeta and net veils offset Valaya’s signature zari and embroidery, and some not-so-signature digital prints. And while Ushanka fur hats topped off many an outfit, embellished kamarbands tied the entire collection together neatly. The colour palette extended from sombre peaches to fiery oranges.

But the showstopper award had to be given to what Valaya called “nine super cool professional high achievers”, whom the designer got to walk for him. To the loudest cheers Artists Jiten Thukral and Sumir Tagra, sitar virtuoso siblings Amaan and Ayaan Ali Khan, polo player Samir Suhag, textile designer Peter D’Ascoli, and multimedia artist Samar Singh Jodha appeared in beautiful velvet jackets, harem trousers and gold brocade jackets. Amaan Ali Khan said Valaya was such an institution from their younger days that he didn’t hesitate when the designer asked the brothers to be his showstoppers” “He took people from different fields – polo players, musicians, artists – [he is] not Bollwood centric.”

And it didn’t hurt that the clothes were lovely.

“I would wear never wear a red sherwani with dhoti trousers, otherwise,” said the sitarist. “Someone also mentioned that this is the first time he’s doing a pret line, with lower prices so the younger generation can buy it.”

His brother compared the designer’s evolution with classical music: “Valaya’s clothes always had an elegance, grace and dignity; all facets connected deeply to classical music. It’s been a very gradual journey, and just like the values of tradition increases with every passing day, you can see how his journey, craft and charm has become more grounded, with every passing day. And I am so happy to be a part of it.”